Tru, Chicago

April 18, 2017

Tru has had a Michelin star since the Chicago Guide started in 2011. It received a second star in the latest edition. Linda and I went for dinner to celebrate the day after her birthday on March 25, 2017.

We were seated in the middle of the spacious dining room with its minimalist, mostly white, décor.

We started with glasses of Champagne. They were followed by a bottle of 2009 Joseph Voillot Volnay Fremiets, which was delicious.

The amuse-gueule was gougères and pine nut biscuits with apricot jam.

There is no à la carte, only a prix fixe menu (with an abbreviated option.) There are two choices for two courses and the dessert. There is optional caviar to start and a good-looking optional cheese trolley before the dessert.

The first course was
red ace beet, granny smith mousse

The beets had a good natural flavor that melded well with the green apple purée. The crunchy ricotta nuggets added interest.

A basket of warm multi-grain sourdough bread was served.

Very good.

Linda’s second course was
butternut squash soup, brown butter, truffle cream

The texture and flavor of the soup were complimented by the two light parmesan tuiles.

My second course was
aromatic mussel velouté, green curry

There was just the right amount of curry in the soup with mussels, their juice and coconut milk. Nice.

vidalia onion tart, périgord black winter truffle

The generous portion of earthy truffle slices blended well with the onion filling of the tart. 

wild mushroom, skate wing, young chervil

The poached skate wing was served with a salty, milky broth.

spiced cervena venison, celery root, baked pear, cocoa jus

The New Zealand venison was perfectly cooked with a spice crust. It was nicely matched with the cooked pear, celery root and a jus with a hint of chocolate.

jidori chicken, farro, sunflower sprouts

The slice of free-range chicken was topped with wheat grain and a brown sauce. I thought this course was quite boring.

ruby grapefruit, fennel consommé, aged balsamic

This pre-dessert was refreshing, although a bit acidic. Happily, we had finished our wine.

A basket of delicious, warm honey/orange zest madeleines was put on the table.

Linda’s dessert was
mango + lemongrass + ginger, carolina gold rice, honey

The flavors were refined and well matched.

My dessert was
dulce de leche, banana, dark chocolate

A rich, good combination.

Linda received a birthday cupcake madeleine with a beautifully-done message on a glass plate.

The mignardises included canalés, raspberry gels and chili chocolates.

Finally, there was a chocolate bonbon nestled in a shredded paper nest.

The cuisine was mostly very good, but did not merit the second Michelin star this evening. The pace was fine and the service was excellent, combining formality with a welcoming graciousness. The “music” all evening was jumpy, techno-synthetic and to us did not fit with the refined Tru setting and cuisine.

http://trurestaurant.com/

 

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