La Table de Patrick Raingeard, Cap Estel

May 9, 2017

Patrick Raingeard has been the chef of the restaurant of the super-luxury Hôtel Cap Estel for the last five years, regaining its Michelin star.  On our last two visits, before chef Raingeard, we dined outside on the terrace with its spectacular views of the Mediterranean coast between Cap Ferrat and Cap d’Ail. But when Clare and Basil invited us to join them at La Table de Patrick Raingeard  on April 28, 2017, it was too cool to sit outside.

We were seated in the spacious modern dining room. The Champagne cart was wheeled up to our table.

We started with glasses of
Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut “Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru.”

The first amuse-gueule was a wooden bowl with barba-jouan (a local specialty of chard-filled fried ravioli,) dry focaccia and crudités with a little bowl of lemon olive oil for dipping.

The second had a little glass of sweet corn soup, a potato and chicken accras and a macaron salé.

The third was a ball of frothy foie-gras mousse in a pretty edible contraption.

The bread basket was passed.

A house specialty is anise-flavored bread and we each took a thin slice.

It was good in itself, but unfriendly to wine so we did not eat much.
Our white wine was poured.

This 2008 Puligny-Montrachet was rich and luscious with a strong typical white Burgundy flavor.

Clare and Linda’s first course was
Risotto crémeux de fregola sarda aux pistils de safran du Pont Royal

The “risotto” was made with small pasta balls. It was topped with morels and free-range quail eggs. Linda wrote: “The morels were plentiful and had excellent texture and taste, which combined well with the quail eggs and with a luscious mushroom sauce in the bottom of the bowl.  (The sauce was so good that Linda ate the last drops of it with bread.) Very successful.

Basil had
Tartare de langoustines bretonnes au Caviar Gold Kristal
Velours de petits pois de pays à l’huile de verveine

A mound of tartare of Breton langoustines was on a seasonal pea purée thinned with verbena olive oil. On top was sturgeon caviar farmed in China by a traditional house.

I had
Salade de râble de lapereau fumé au bois de hêtre, févettes et kumquats

The salad was presented to me under a glass bell filled with beechwood smoke. Its flavor was nicely absorbed by the ingredients, particularly the four lettuce-wrapped rounds of young rabbit meat. The white spheres are of almond milk. This was a light, good starter.

The sommelier now poured our red wine.

This Burgundy was also excellent.

Clare went on to
Le Homard bleu d’Atlantique roulé à la poudre de basilic
Quinoa bio à la crème de mascarpone, topinambour et girolles

Chunks of Breton lobster had been flavored with basil. The garnishes were quinoa in a mascarpone cream, Jerusalem artichoke and chanterelle mushrooms.

The other three of us had
Ris de veau rôti moelleux aux épines vinette et café
Pomme granny à l’anis étoilé et salsifis

A large sweetbread had been roasted until it was quite soft. It was dressed with barberries and coffee, which added fruity acidity and interest. The garnish was anise-flavored wedges of granny smith apples and pieces of salsify. Basil and Linda thought that the texture, flavor and preparation were excellent.

Chef Raingeard came by with the maître d’hôtel to chat and pose for a photo with Clare.

Linda and Basil had the
Sélection du Maître Fromager Hervé Mons par Philippe Caillouet.

The cheeses were all in perfect condition. The Epoisses (in the round box in the middle) was particularly pungent and good.

The pre-dessert was a pineapple and mint ball topped with a frozen foam.

Dessert for Clare and me was
Soufflé tradition gingembre-vanille Bourbon
Sorbet bergamangado (bergamote, mangue, avocat)

The ginger-vanilla souflée had perfect texture, but was lacking in flavor beyond sugar. It was accompanied by a bergamot, mango, avocado sorbet, which was interesting.

The mignardises included chocolate lollipops, raspberry macarons and orange gels.

We enjoyed a lovely evening. The cuisine was traditional and imaginative at the same time. The ingredients were all top quality. The service was gracious and efficient. The pace was a bit slow, but we were enjoying ourselves. Conversation was easy in the quiet ambiance. Thank you, Clare and Basil.

To see our last blogpost on this restaurant click here. We have had other meals since which we did not post. 

One Response to “La Table de Patrick Raingeard, Cap Estel”

  1. I do not like this new type of food. I am 78 years old and still
    remember my meals at Roger Verge.

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