L’Hostellerie Jérôme, La Turbie 9

May 16, 2017

Barbara joined Linda and me for dinner at L’Hostellerie Jérôme on April 30, 2017. We were seated in the newly remodeled back room.

Glasses of Francis Boulard “Les Murgiers” Champagne started things off and went well with the extensive appetizers.

We chose the smaller of the two tasting menus; it was still copious with the abundant appetizers and mignardises.

We ordered a bottle of 2006 Domaine Tempier “La Magoua.”

This special bottling of the premier Bandol vineyard is exquisite.

Pain Michette is a local specialty bread made with olive oil. We were given a garlic purée and rich butter to enhance it.


Other appetizers were:
Little feuilleté rectangles.

Flat grissini with warm confit tomato spheres on round wafers.

A fava bean purée to spread on the feuilletés and grissini.

Then a soup of seasonal fresh peas with some foamy cream. The pea flavor really came through.

The final appetizer was steamed lobster with a beet slice and spring greens.

The first menu course was
Homard, asperges et macaronis, jus de truffe, huile d’olive.

It is hard to miss with lobster and fresh spring asparagus prepared simply. The macaronis were nice for absorbing the lobster flavored olive oil underneath.

Les filets de rougets de roche, safran, artichauts.

These little sea bream filets were perfectly cooked with crispy skin. Chunks of artichoke hearts and tomatoes went well, as did the saffron sauce underneath.

Pigeonneau rôti, réduction d’olives noires au vin de Bandol.

The squab breast was pink and delicious. The braised leg meat was a very different texture. In the upper right you can see a sautéed slice of foie gras that added richness to the lean squab. A chunk of potato and fresh peas added needed vegetable relief. This was a real pleasure, particularly along with the wine.

The pre-dessert was Carros strawberries with pistachio sorbet and the little green “angelique de Montagne” confit.

Linda’s dessert was
Les cerises chaudes, sorbet aux draguées roses, poivre vanille, pistaches.

The warm cherries and sorbet, with crunch from the pistachios, provided an excellent, light and not-sweet formal finish to Linda’s meal. 

Barbara and I had
Tarte aux citrons de Ligurie, fenouil sauvage, sorbet.

The slice of a custard tart flavored with aromatic local lemons was good. The scoop of lemon sorbet had a stronger, more acidic flavor. The fromage blanc was milder. A few wild asparagus were unusual for a dessert, but worked well. 

There were extensive and excellent mignardises.

Pistachio financières.

Fraises-de-bois tartelettes. Excellent.

Anisées.

Mandarine gels. Very good with a strong tangerine flavor and not too sweet.

Brandied cherries. I loved these and the ladies let me have all of them.

Excellent chocolates. We took half of these home with us.

L’Hostellerie Jérôme continues to be our favorite restaurant within a twenty-minute drive of our house in Beaulieu-sur-Mer. It is scandalous that the Michelin Guide has not restored its second star. Chef Bruno Cirino continues to do most of his shopping in Ventimiglia, just across the border in Italy. This is evident in the freshness and quality of his ingredients. They were also notable this evening for their spring seasonality. That the combinations are mostly local traditions does not create any sense of déjà-vu. The little added touches and the excellence of the preparation keep them above that.

Madame Cirino and her entire dining room staff were notable for their cheerfulness and efficiency. We will be back.

http://www.hostelleriejerome.com/index.html

 

To see all our blogposts on L’Hostellerie Jérôme click here

 

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