La Réserve de Beaulieu, 7

May 23, 2017

On April 27, 2017, Linda and I returned for dinner to Le Restaurant des Rois in La Réserve de Beaulieu.

We were seated in the elegant dining room with a view across the tables by the window out to the bay between Beaulieu-sur-Mer and the Pointe Saint Hospice. There were big yachts in the area for the Monaco Grand Prix and the Cannes Film Festival.

To our left were the flower arrangements by the entrance.

We started with glasses of Taittinger Brut Champagne. Three little hors d’oeuvres arrived: A celery root mousse canapé, a potato chip with a ball of haddock mousse and a soft cheese cone.

We ordered the three-course Discovery Menu  and a bottle of
2008 François Parent Frémiets Volnay.

This had a lovely, mild flavor and bouquet. The truffle on the label shows what the vintner thought it would best accompany.

The appetizer was a little cup with a faux-paëlla: peas, diced chorizo, red pepper etc topped with a mussel cream.

Nice.

A bread board was placed on the table. Butter was served along with a pâté of olive oil which had a concentrated olive oil taste and avoided the usual drippiness that goes with olive oil for dipping.


The first course was
Le Mystère de l’Œuf, en neige,
brioche en grosse chapelure croustillante,
jus de truffe légèrement crémé.


A sphere of frothy egg whites coated with toasted brioche crumbs enclosed a whole, runny yolk. They had little flavor, waiting to be enhanced by the light cream of truffle juice, the white slices of summer truffle and drops of truffle oil. The truffle flavor really came through.

.

Le Ris de Veau de nos Terroirs,
braisé, spaghetti de concombre à l’aneth,
jus corsé d’ail roti.

A braised veal sweetbread rested on top of a coil of cucumber formed into a thick spaghetti sprinkled with chopped dill. A frond of dill rested on top, along with cooked and raw garlic bits. After it was served, a salty veal and roast garlic sauce was spooned onto the dish from a little sauce pan that was then put on a warming candle holder.  Additional sauce was offered and accepted from the little pan; it eventually soaked the remaining cucumber. The unusual combination of cucumber and sweetbread worked well, although the garlic was overdone and the cucumber spaghetti lost interest after it was soaked..

.

Le Pré-dessert was a granité of passion fruit with a lime sorbet.

This helped clear out the garlic and salt.

Our dessert was
Le Soufflé « Réserve », au Grand Marnier, sorbet mandarine berlugane.




A bottle of Grand Marnier was put on the table and then poured into the soufflé after its arrival. Alongside was a sorbet of local tangerines. This classic dessert was lovely.

There were four excellent little mignardises.

We had a good time. The meal lived up to the restaurant’s remaining Michelin star, thanks to the extras. The service and ambiance were, of course, excellent. We enjoyed chatting again with Daniel, the genial, long-time sommelier.

http://www.reservebeaulieu.com/luxury-hotel/french-gastronomic-restaurant/the-restaurant-des-rois/

To see all of our meals at La Réserve de Beaulieu click here.

 

 

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