Le Cap at the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat

July 11, 2017

In May 2017 Yoric Tièche took over as Executive Chef of the three restaurants at Le Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat: the poolside grill, Le Dauphin; the informal bistro, La Véranda, and the gastronomic, Le Cap, which is only open from June 15 to September 15 in 2017. He earned the title “Best Chef of Tomorrow” from Gault & Millau in 2016. Linda and I dined at Le Cap the evening of June 21, 2017.

We were seated on the edge of the terrace with a view over the Véranda restaurant just below us and the gardens beyond.

A view of the terrace of Le Cap.

We were given tubes of lemon verbena flavored water to refresh our palates.

The Champagne trolley was wheeled up to our table.

We were shown bottles of rosé Champagne and of Krug, but we selected the 2007 Vintage Amour de Deutz blanc de blancs.

A plate of lovely little hors d’œuvres arrived.

These were all quite complex for such little things. They all had a seafood element which complemented the Champagne.

There was an extensive à la carte menu, but we selected the Menu “Grand Bleu.”

We ordered a bottle of 2015 Georges Vernay “Les Terrasses de l’Empire” Condrieu.

Nice, and a good match with the cuisine, but the Condrieu characteristics were subtle.

The amuse-gueule was an origami of ham filled with robiola cheese on diced celery and ham.

The first course was
Emincé de Filet de Loup de Ligne à Cru
Oranges Fraîches et Chou Rouge Epicé en Condiments

The filet of local line-caught sea bass was marinated in red cabbage juice, giving the raw slices color around the edges. Small chunks of orange, grapefruit and spiced red cabbage provided interest and the right small amount of acidity.

With each seafood course in this menu we were served two small breads designed to go with it. In this case the colors coordinated. Two varieties of excellent Bordier butter were served with them.


Linda asked for the regular bread basket to be passed so she could taste the Bordier butter on a small baguette without a distracting flavor.

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Araignée de Mer Cuite au Naturel
Damier de Pommes Charlotte en Vinaigrette Tomatée

Shards of spider crab were on top of squares of Charlotte potatoes dressed with tomato purée. Underneath was a green tomato vinaigrette.   

The tomato bread was amusing and continued the theme.

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Fricassée de Homard Bleu à l’Ail Noir du Var
Jeunes Navets à l’Aigre Douce, Tuile Croustillante


Chunks of Breton lobster meat were accompanied by sweet and sour turnip slices and chips of slowly caramelized garlic. The thin crusty tile on top added some welcome crunch.

Garlic bread made with flaky puff pastry.

These were really good, both because of their buttery, flaky texture and the mild garlic flavor, which unusually went well with it.
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Blanc de Turbot Braisé à Court Mouillement
Sauté de Pistes et Courgettes Plurielles, Bouillon Clair

Poached filet of turbot was served on top of zucchini balls in a clear fish broth. It was topped with sea beans and good tempura of little squid and zucchini flower.

This was described as slow-baked bread. It was okay, but, like the preparation of the turbot, I did not see the point of it.

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The excellent looking cheese trolley was offered to us, but we declined.

The sommelier suggested a glass of dessert wine, to which I agreed. It was very good.

The pre-dessert was a crème d’agrumes.

The aromatic citrus flavors in various formats were lovely and just the right intensity.

Dessert was
L’abricot et La Verveine
Abricot Infusé à la Verveine, Emulsion et Sorbet Verveine

This was a combination of various uses of verbena and apricots. The gold balls were liquid inside and to be eaten in one mouthful.

Mignardises

Very rich.

Our meal was very enjoyable with no failures, although the turbot was close. It is hard to miss with crab meat and lobster chunks. But I did not sense culinary inspirations which would lead to the ambitions of chef Tièche and the hotel for a second Michelin star.

The service was always superb. The pace was surprisingly good. The setting is magnificent. The ambiance for us was not helped by the lounge-type music trio whose singer had a wailing female voice. 

http://www.fourseasons.com/capferrat/dining/restaurants/le_cap/

 

 

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