La Chèvre d’Or, Eze 4

October 31, 2017

On October 10, 2017, Linda and I returned to La Chèvre d’Or for dinner.  We had enjoyed our meal there a year before under new chef, Arnaud Faye.

A rolled, crisp wafer with pissaladière flavors was put on the table.

We were offered glasses of champagne from the rolling cart. We chose one from a small producer recommended by the sommelier. Nice.

There were various à la carte choices, but we selected the only menu offered: De roche et d’eau. We ordered a bottle of 2009 “La Tourtine” Domaine Tempier Bandol.

This was quite tannic and did not go as well with the cuisine as the 2008 vintage we had enjoyed the year before.

The first two hors d’œuvres were a mini pan bagnat and a lemon/parmesan tartelette.

There were foie gras mousse spheres with a little slice of pear on top.

Then a little cup of gelled soup au pistou.

Finally, continuing these small versions of cuisine niçoise, were garnished socca chips.

We were served a soft, cube-shaped bread with an olive oil pâté.

A regular bread basket was passed later.

The first menu course was
Rôti sans cuisson, homard fumé à l’hysope, barbajuan des

The piece of smoked lobster was served under a glass bell with a smoking hyssop twig. The yellow scoop in the middle is melon sorbet. There are four pieces of melon in various formats. It was not clear which was supposed to be the claw meat barbajuan, which is a local specialty of a chard-filled fritter. I really enjoyed this.

Artichaut Violet,
Caviar Osciètre, bouillon au citron vert.

The heart of a small artichoke was topped with artichoke chips and good caviar. It was hard to eat without toppling the caviar into the lime broth, which spoiled the effect. 

Coquillages et crustacés de Méditerranée,
Comme une soupe à la rouille.

Shrimp, squid pieces and peppers were atop a seafood broth. The rouille was missing its cayenne and color. 

Chou-fleur caramélisé aux olives niçoises,
jus de carotte, épices et basilica.

The grilled piece of grouper was lacking in flavor and was not helped at all by the strange black olive and carrot juice sauce with its basil-flavored dot. But the caramelized cauliflower was excellent.

Poulpe fumé, aubergine et champignons des bois,
jus d’herbes des falaises

The rabbit pieces were presented in the cocotte in which they had been braised with rosemary. They were served with eggplant, wild mushrooms and chunks of smoked octopus. I have nothing against imaginative combinations, but the octopus did not work for me at all. On the left is a mousse of rabbit liver. 

En différentes textures, comme un vacherin.

The thick middle layer of this dessert is fig ice cream. Figs also made appearances in other formats.

Vision d’un citron de pays,

This dessert was the only part of the meal that repeated from previous meals. This is understandable as the pastry chef, Julien Dugourd, who has been there for seven years, has not changed. A faux lemon with a candy crust was filled with a lemon-flavored mousse. Decorated balls of lemon sorbet were alongside.

The mignardises were a cream puff and a rich chocolate bar.

A white chocolate lollipop.

Fresh, warm apple beignets.


We were given a box with a little financière cake to take home for breakfast.
Very good.

The cuisine was even more complicated and elaborately garnished than the year before and did not work as well, although there were some good spots. The service was always perfect and the pace good.

To see all of our meals at La Chèvre d’Or click here.

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