Ristorante il Centro, Priocca 2

November 7, 2017

On October 16, 2017, Linda and I returned to Ristorante il Centro for dinner.

We were warmly greeted and seated by Giampiero Cordero, general manager and maître d’hôtel. His father, Enrico, was still much in evidence helping in the dining room, as you shall see.
We started with glasses of Deltetto Vino Spumante di Qualità metodo classico Brut. This very good sparkling wine is made by the classic Champagne method in the nearby Roero region. 

A plate of four hors d’œuvres arrived.

From the right, they were: homemade salami; pepper with anchovies and capers;  hazelnut top and bottom with rabbit mousse; a savory faux macaron.

We ordered the tasting menu. It started with three appetizers that we could choose from the printed menu, but they had to be the same for both of us. We could then each choose separately our pasta, main course and dessert. With the help of Giampiero we ordered a bottle of 2008 Le Rocche del Falletto Barolo by Bruno Giacosa. Superb.

Large fresh grissini had been on the table when we arrived. Now bread was served.

Our first appetizer was
Millefoglie di vicciola con lardo Patanegra.

Vicciola is a flavorful, tender and lean local cattle breed raised slowly on selected fresh hazelnuts, which are an important local crop. This tartare cut was interleaved with lardo from special pigs. Underneath were a hazelnut smear and crushed hazelnuts, which were a needed addition. There were little pieces of confit celery for contrast. Excellent.

Melanzane, tomino, salsa verde.

A square of eggplant was accompanied by a soft, local cows milk cheese, a green sauce and various bits. Nice.

Animelle, funghi e rucola.

Braised pieces of sweetbreads were served on an arugula sauce. Alongside were mushroom and eggplant dabs. Very good.

Tajarin al tartufo bianco d’Alba

Enrico obviously enjoyed shaving the seasonal white truffles on our fresh egg pasta. And we enjoyed their aroma and flavor.

Linda’s main course was
Uova al tegamino con tartufo bianco d’Alba

This second classic Piedmont white truffle dish was too much for Linda to resist.  Enrico shaved plenty of truffles onto the fresh “fried” eggs and the combination was as excellent as expected.

Mine was
Coniglio arrosto con peperonata

The roasted pieces of rabbit were nicely accompanied by sweet pepper pieces which added moisture and flavor to the dry meat.

The pre-dessert was a wafer atop apple caramelized with grappa.

Dessert was
Il nostro dolce di nocciole.

On the right was a small, hot hazelnut soufflée. In the middle a melt-in-your-mouth biscuit of hazelnut and white chocolate. On the left hazelnut ice cream. This was an excellent dessert.


This was a very good meal. The mostly local ingredients were cooked with just the right amount of traditional enhancements.

The service and pace were just right. The elegant room with well spaced tables and no music provided a rare, relaxing ambiance for enjoying our meal.


Giampiero Cordero told us that they are transforming a building close to the restaurant into a six-room hotel which they hope will open next March. That will be very useful as Priocca is not within half an hour of anywhere else. http://www.ristoranteilcentro.com/it/

To see our last meal at Il Centro click here.



2 Responses to “Ristorante il Centro, Priocca 2”

  1. Sam Spektor Says:

    Nice review. Vicariously, another meal for us. Thanks.

    Were you able to get to Ristorante Marsupino?

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