Donguri, NYC 9

December 5, 2017

Since our last visit, Donguri Restaurant was sold in June 2014. The new proprietor, Yorinobu Yamasaki, formerly was the Executive Chef at the celebrated Kai Restaurant. So we were interested to see what changes there might have been when Linda and I returned to Donguri for an early dinner on November 7, 2017.

The small, austere dining room was almost empty when we arrived, but seemed familiar.

We ordered a bottle of Hakkaisan Junmai Ginjo sake.
It had interesting, complex flavors.

The menu had more offerings than before, particularly ‘don’ rice dishes. An omakase dinner is proposed now; it must be ordered the day before. We made our selections from the à la carte menu and the day’s specials. We shared all the dishes.

Our first was a special of the evening
Fresh Yuba with Sea Urchin

Sea urchin, ‘uni,’ was served on top of fresh soymilk skin. The two had elegant flavors and went well together, but they were somewhat bland and needed the soy sauce served alongside a bit of the wasabi dab.  

Soft Shell Crabs Karaage

These deep-fried soft shell crabs had a nice flavor; they lacked the crispness that tempura frying would have given them. 

Sweet Corn Tempura

This is a standby dish at Donguri and is always satisfying.

Prawns Tempura

These were really good. The flavor was at the level of the best shrimp tempura. The only thing missing was the heads.

Broiled Black Cod marinated with Saikyo Miso

The cod had been marinated in white miso, which is made with more rice than soy. It had a nice, but not assertive, flavor, like the accompanying shiitake slices.  On top was a thin radish pickle, which sparked things up, if needed. 

We finished with a special dessert of the evening
Crunchy hazelnuts chocolate cake

We felt like we were back in the Piemonte, where we had been three weeks before. This was very good. 

Donguri was still as good as we remember it, although we have had more memorable meals there. I think that we were too conventional and restrained in our ordering this time. The service was charming, as usual and the pace quite rapid. We will be back for the omakase.

To see all of our blogposts on Donguri click here.

One Response to “Donguri, NYC 9”

  1. Lora Vance Says:

    It looks delicious! I’m so glad you had a great dining experience.

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