Mirazur, Menton 10

April 10, 2018

Linda and I returned to Mirazur for lunch on March 8, 2018.

We started with glasses of Alexandre-Penet Champagne. We had pre-ordered the Menu Inspiration when we made our reservation.

We were soon served the Canapés de reception:
Mozzarella fumé avec sel noir
Grissini feuilletés avec truffe noir

Smoked mozzarella was enclosed in a thin black salt paste. This was nice, but the puff pastry sticks topped with black truffle bits were superb.

A parmesan cracker was topped with thick cream and rosemary flowers.

Carrot was rolled around orange inside. Black sesame cream formed the faux capers on top while black sesame seeds decorated the carrot slices. 

Petits ravioli comme barbajuan 

Barbajuans are a local specialty of Menton and Monaco. Raviolis stuffed with chard and ricotta are fried. The little toppings were extra.

A freshly baked warm loaf of “sharing bread,” a custom from Argentina, like the chef, arrived with a dipping bowl of Mirazur’s lemon and ginger olive oil.

We ordered a bottle of 2014 1er Cru – ‘Les Porusots’ Meursault from the Château de Puligny-Montrachet.

Well, I was surprised to find a Meursault from the Château de Puligny-Montrachet, but a little research shows that in 2012 it was acquired by the aggressive Montille family, which has its origins in Volnay, just north of Meursault. This wine was up to their high standards. 

The first course was
Émietté de tourteau
Consommé de bœuf et tagète.

On top was an oxtail aspic garnished with marigold petals. Flaked crabmeat was underneath. This refined surf and turf was refreshing and good.
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« Green »
Petits pois de notre jardin, kiwi et fenouil.

This is the season for fresh peas and these were very good. (The peas we had bought in the Ventimiglia market that morning were also very good.) The thin slices of fennel and turnip were a nice addidtion, but the kiwi slices were a jarring note, too sour and of a different cuisine.
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Oignons des Cévennes
Grana Padano, coulis de truffe du Périgord.

The sweet onion had been filled with Grana Padano, an Italian hard cheese often grated. It was then closed and roasted. It sat on a coulis of winter truffles, which emphasized the earthiness of the dish.
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Loup
Mousseline de céleri-rave, sauce fumée aux coquillages .

A piece of Mediterranean sea bass with a crispy skin sat on a celery root purée. They were dressed with an excellent frothy sauce of smoked shellfish. Sorrel leaves added some acidity and color.
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Foie gras de la Maison Mitteault
Pomelo du jardin du Carnolès, tarte de navet au sirop d’érable.

A seared chunk of duck foie gras was accompanied by a half tartelette of turnip with maple sugar. Alongside were pieces of grapefruit and borage flowers.
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I was served a glass of 2013 Domaine Thierry Mortet Gevrey-Chambertin, which was superb.

Pigeon de “Marie Le Guen”
Chou noir, sauce vin rouge et petit épeautre.


Two luscious slices of pigeon breast were dressed with a red wine sauce. With it were a confit pigeon leg, a square of crisp pigeon skin, winter cabbage topped with spelt, a roasted onion half and some citrus. Alongside was a cup with broth and a pigeon liver raviolo.  This whole dish was excellent.
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The pre-dessert was
Soupe de pomme Granny Smith
Sorbet au yaourt et cristalline de coriander.

Little Granny Smith green apple balls were in its cold soup. On top were yoghurt sorbet, apple slices and a crunchy coriander cylinder.

Dessert was
Citron, osmanthus, miso blanc.


A meringue dome covered lemony ingredients on a genoise biscuit base. .

Mignardises


Avocado macarons; lemon tartelettes with a sorrel cream; lemon gels.
Coffee.

We were given lemon cakes to take home for breakfast.


The lunch was very good, but I was surprised that there was so little fish and seafood.  I think it may have suffered from the recent bad weather limiting supplies of fresh local fish. There were touches of lemon at the end, Menton’s signature winter product. The service and ambiance were superb, as usual.

http://www.mirazur.fr/le-restaurant.php

To see all of our blogposts on Mirazur click here.

 

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