Keisuke Matsushima, Nice 6

June 19, 2018

Keisuke Matsushima was awarded a Michelin star in 2006, but lost it two years ago. The chef had perhaps tried too much with two other restaurants in Nice, one in Tokyo and other ventures. But we knew that he is talented and we like his formula of Provençale, particularly Niçoise, cuisine with a few Japanese touches, so we decided to try his major restaurant again. Basil and Clare joined us for dinner there on May 30, 2018.

 The dining room still has a spare Japanese feel.

We ordered a bottle of Egly-Ouriet ‘Brut Tradition Grand Cru’ Champagne. A nice start.

The hors d’œuvres were a little carrot cake, a tartare of sardines on a chip and a truffled sabayon.


These were all very good and prepared us for the meal to come.

We ordered the Menu Dégustation with surprise courses. We also ordered a bottle of Montez “Les Grandes Chaillées” Condrieu, which was excellent.

The appetizer was a little cup of gazpacho.

This refreshed the palate to start.

The first course was a golden egg containing red tuna “as in a salade Niçoise.”


Mixed with the tuna chunks were anchovies, green pepper, tomato, celery, artichoke bits and a small scoop of celery ice cream.

The bread basket arrived along with olive oil for dipping.


The next course was a piece of sautéed foie gras on a bed of shredded artichoke with arugula and dots of Banyuls reduction.

Luscious and good, a change from the somewhat austere first two courses.

Local seabass on a bed of peas and morel mushrooms with a foamy fish stock cream sauce.

Nice.

We started on a bottle of
2009 Jean-Luc Colono “Les Ruchets” Cornas.

This was exceptionally good with enough age to tame the syrah and let its full flavor through. 

Veal with spring vegetables.

The chunk of roast veal was flavorful, enhanced by the veal glaze. The mixed vegetables of the season retained their flavors and made this a nice dish.

The pre-dessert was a yuzu cream with wasabi sorbet, the only Japanese touch in the meal.

Basil had the cheese plate.

The cheeses were all in top condition.

The dessert was a martini glass with a
« Gianduia » of Piedmont hazelnuts with a dark chocolate slab and coffee ice cream.

Mignardises


Little glasses with custard and a citrus gel. Fluffy marshmallows, madeleines and chocolate macarons.

We were pleasantly surprised by how good this meal was. We expected less since Keisuke Matsushima had lost its Michelin star. It now seems en route to getting it back. The cuisine was seasonal and local. The ingredients were good and the combinations well thought out and executed.  Under Gilles, the maître d’hôtel, the service, pace and ambiance were all correct.

The restaurant’s website:
http://www.keisukematsushima.com

To see all of our blogposts on Keisuke Matsushima click here. 

 

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