Le Chantecler, Nice 4

July 3, 2018

Le Chantecler in the Hôtel Negresco regained its two Michelin stars in 2012 under chef Jean-Denis Rieubland. But, after ten years there, he departed in January 2018.  Sous chef Jérémy Brun is directing the kitchen until the arrival of Virginie Basselot, one of two women awarded the title “Chef meilleur ouvrier de France.” 

Le Chantecler has a difficult fine dining environment with many tourists and hotel guests. Most of the other tables were English speaking when Linda and I returned for dinner on June 6, 2018.

We were seated on the far side of the mostly pink dining room. This was my view. The champagne cart is in the middle of the room.

This was Linda’s view out to the little garden along the Promenade des Anglais.

We selected glasses of 2006 Taittinger « Comtes de Champagne.»

We ordered the Menu Chantecler. To accompany it we chose a bottle of 2009 Domaine Maldant Pauvelot ‘Les Gravains’ 1er Cru Savigny-les-Beaune from the wine list, which is so large it is carried to tableside on a stand.

Good pinot noir characteristics.

The appetizers, Au fil des créations culinaires…, were haddock with turnip, a micro pissaladière, a melon ball and a mini lemoncello tart.

They were followed by a sweet red pepper puff.

The amuse bouche, L’éveil des papilles…, was a piece of sea bass with a mousseline citronée and salicornes.

The sea bass rested on a bed of chopped sea beans in a foamy, lemony cream sauce.

The bread basket was passed.

The round parmesan breads were interesting and good.

Linda’s first course was
La tarte fine de cèpes.

The thick slices of cèpes (porcini mushrooms) were lightly grilled and placed on a thin tarte.  The little beige dab was cèpe-flavored. Linda used the cèpe powder sprinkled around the plate with morsels of the cèpes to enhance their flavor. This was a subtle, but good, first course.

 

Mine was
Le gnocchi de courgette, sardine grillée, bouillon acidulé.

I ordered this for the grilled sardines, but they were just tiny chips on top of the gnocchi along with a black olive ring and a leaf. The acid in the zucchini broth was the only evident flavor. Disappointing.

 

The main course for both of us was
La selle d’agneau à l’algue nori, raviole de chou-fleur.


A cylinder of saddle of lamb had been wrapped in a seaweed sheet and roasted. Its flavor was meaty and good, enhanced by a lamb glaze underneath. Alongside was a bowl with three cauliflower raviolis.

The pre-dessert was a mint emulsion with diced cucumber in a mint gel underneath. It was decorated with bits of lemon peel. This was refreshing as a pre-dessert is supposed to be.

Linda’s dessert was
Le temps des cerises, cerises et réglisse  au sucre muscovado.


The cherries used in this unusual dessert were described as “early.”  Except for the three slices of cherry you see on top of the cylinder, the rest of the cherries were a mousse inside the gel-covered cylinder. The cylinder had wafers on its ends and underneath to cut the sweetness. The granité of cherries was very soothing as a partner for the cylinder.

My dessert was
La groseille parfumée de sarriette, crémeux et mousse amande.

Sorbet and other variations of red currents flavored with summer savory were artfully arranged with almond cream balls etc. This was as good as it was pretty.

The mignardises cart, Une fin de gourmandises…, was wheeled over and we made our choices.

My choices:

Two macarons, a small coconut cake and a rich, dark chocolate.

Our meal was generally good and enjoyable, but not at all up to Le Chantecler’s two-Michelin star status. It will be interesting to see what evolves under the new chef. The service and pace were fine this evening. 

http://www.hotel-negresco-nice.com/en/restaurants/le-chantecler-restaurant

To see all of our blogposts on Le Chantecler click here.

 

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