Trattoria Marsupino, Briaglia

November 20, 2018

Linda and I spent the night of October 25, 2018 in a picturesque suite atop the Trattoria Marsupino in Briaglia, near Mondovi in southern Piemonte.  It has been run by the Marsupino family since 1901.

The front of the old building is quite plain. The rooms are in a similar building off to the left. Dining rooms are on both sides of the entry.

The entrance hall has a classic Berkel meat slicer and a compact bar.

We ate that evening in one of the small dining rooms.  We started by ordering a glass of a local sparkling wine, Totocorde Altalange Brut by Cocchi. Nice.

There were two appetizers: a one-bite vitello tonnato (the traditional veal with tuna mayonnaise combination) and fennel salami.

Bread and grissini were served.

From the enormous wine list we ordered a bottle of 2005 Enrico Pira & Figli Chiara Boschis Cannubi Barolo. Luca Marsupino, the friendly, helpful host and sommelier, decanted it for us. It was really superb.

Since we had come to the Piemonte in this season for them, we ordered the white truffle menu, in which one could choose three of the five white truffle dishes offered. There was also a non-truffle tasting menu, as well as à la carte offerings.

Our first course was
Cuore di cardo gobo con fonduta e tartufo bianco.

A braised cardoon was served on a bed of melted fontina cheese. It was topped with freshly shaved white truffles. Cardoons are in the thistle family and are tricky to prepare. They are a seasonal, local specialty.

Linda’s second course was
Uovo pochet con fonduta e tartufo bianco.

A poached egg was on a fontina cheese fondue. It was topped with freshly shaved white truffles.

Mine was
Carne cruda ciapulà e tartufo bianco.

Raw chopped veal was topped with freshly shaved white truffles.

Our third course was
Tajarin ai quaranta tuorli al burro di montagna e tartufo bianco

Tajarin, the local name for tagliolini, made with forty egg yolks per kilogram of flour, were dressed with rich mountain butter. They were topped with freshly shaved white truffles. Of all the ways to use white truffles, I think this is the best. While the truffles should not be heated, mixing them into warm pasta briefly enhances the aroma and flavor.

Dessert was
Cachi, castagne e gelato al fior di latte.

The scoop of ice cream was made with a milky cow mozzarella. It sat on a persimmon coulis and was topped with chestnut purée. 

The mignardises were crunchy meringues, nutty chocolate slices and apricot feuilletés. A nice finish.

We thoroughly enjoyed our meal. In one way it was a shame not to sample many of the kitchen’s praised talents, but this was a unique opportunity. The ambiance, service and pace were all just right.

One Response to “Trattoria Marsupino, Briaglia”

  1. Jane Says:

    Always enjoy waking up to one of your reviews. A great way to start the day. Thank! Jane

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