Bovio Ristorante, La Morra 4

December 11, 2018

On October 28, 2018, Linda and I returned to Bovio with Blair, Karyn, Allison, Brady, Tom and Lisa. We were celebrating Blair’s fortieth birthday the following week.

Bread and grissini were already on the table.

We were happy to find that Bovio’s traditional six-course White Truffle of Alba Menu had started for this season. On our last visit here the weather had delayed the season and we only had three truffle courses. 

We started with a bottle of Cocchi Bianc’d Bianc, Alta Langa Brut. This local dry sparkling wine was a good refreshing start.

It was followed by a bottle of 2005 Bussiador Chardonnay from Aldo Conterno. It was amazingly long-lived and had character.

The appetizer was chopped veal wrapped in cabbage with a cream sauce.

After long consultation with the huge wine list, Blair ordered two magnums:
1998 Asili di Barbaresco from Bruno Giacosa.
1997 Vigna Arborina Barolo from Bovio‘s vineyard just down the hill from the restaurant.

Magnums need large decanters.

This was the eventual lineup of empties.

Our first course was
La battuta di fassone piemontese con tartufo bianco.


Driving on the autostrada south of Torino, one can see the sturdy white Fassone cattle in the pastures. It is a breed raised only in the Piemonte. The meat is known for being lean, tender and flavorful, making it perfect for a pure chopped beef tartare. 

Alessandra, the daughter of Gian Bovio, runs the dining room while her husband Marco is the chef. As each course was served, Alessandra would come to our table with her tray of fresh, aromatic white truffles. She would shave a generous portion on top of each dish. I have shown the before and after photos of each one.

.
Funghi porcini spadellati con fonduta e tartufo bianco.


Porcini mushrooms, sautéed with rosemary and garlic, were placed on a bed of warm fonduta, a blend of milk, butter, egg yolk and fontina cheese from the Val d’Aosta, just north of the Piemonte. There were not enough porcini to make a statement and so they were dominated by the fonduta, which is not really a good match with them anyway. But the truffles made this enjoyable. 

.
Uovo in pasta alla Bergese con tartufo bianco.


This dish was invented by Nino Bergese, chef to Italian royalty and aristocracy. An egg on a bed of chopped spinach and ricotta is enclosed in a large raviolo and lightly poached. Parmesan and the white truffles are shaved over it. Traditional and very nice.

.
Tagliolini ai trenta rossi con tartufo bianco.


This pasta dough is prepared with thirty egg yolks for each kilogram of flour. It is cut very thin, cooked quickly and dressed simply with good butter before the white truffles are shaved onto it. Lovely; in my opinion the single best way to serve white truffles. They pick up a bit of heat as they are mixed with the pasta, which briefly enhances the flavor. 


Cubi di filetto di vitello fassona su crema di parmigiano e tartufo bianco.


Grilled chunks of filet of veal from Fassone cattle were served on top of a parmesan cream. Crisp chips added texture. 

.

Dessert was
Panna cotta al miele e tartufo bianco.

Panna cotta, cream thickened with gelatin, is a traditional dessert of the Piemonte. This was flavored with honey and went well with the white truffles.
Blair had a birthday candle with his.

There were lovely mignardises.

Excellent boxed chocolates to enjoy now or take home.

We enjoyed a lovely evening. The cuisine was well designed to show off the flavor and aroma of the white truffles. The wines were excellent and were a perfect match. The group was convivial. The service, pace, ambiance and noise level were all just right. Bravo Bovio. 

http://www.ristorantebovio.it/eng/ristorante.asp 

To see our last meal at Bovio click here.

 

4 Responses to “Bovio Ristorante, La Morra 4”

  1. Allison Ridder Johnstone Says:

    A wonderful night celebrating Blair and catching up with family.

  2. KAREN Says:

    Looks and sounds delicious! Thank you for posting this.

  3. Tucsonbabe Says:

    Michael,

    Thank you for the wonderful postings on the Piedmont. My husband and I have not been to the area in over 30 years. During our visits, we always lunched at the Belvedere in La Morra. I am glad to hear that it is still there in spirit if not in the same location..

    Your postings have convinced us that it is time to return to this wonderful area of Italy. We will, no doubt, find it much changed;however still delicious.

    We are flying to Nice this weekend where we will spend two weeks eating our way through the city (and area) following your recommendations…as we always do. The Epicures always accompany us on our travels.
    .


  4. What a great evening, I had been looking forward to this meal after hearing stories about it from Blair in anticipation of this trip. What a great way to top off a birthday weekend in the Piemonte and share it (and the weekend) with everyone!


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