La Réserve de Beaulieu, 8

January 22, 2019

On Christmas Day 2018 Linda and I went for dinner at
Le Restaurant des Rois in La Réserve de Beaulieu.

There had been a special Christmas Menu for lunch that day when the restaurant was full, but in the evening the regular menus, including holiday dishes, were served.

We were seated near the far end of the elegant dining room, which was pleasantly quiet. We could hear and enjoy the piano player in the bar.

As usual, we started with glasses of Taittinger Brut Champagne.

Three little hors d’œuvres  were served.

Melba toast topped with mashed potato and a truffle slice;
an excellent barbajuan, a local specialty: fried ravioli stuffed with chard and ricotta;
crab tartelette.

We chose the four-course Menu Découverte, but, of course, there were more than four plates.

With the help of Jeremy, the excellent sommelier who has taken over from Daniel, we ordered a bottle of
2006 François Parent Frémiets 1er Cru Volnay.

Superb.

Thick slices of rustic bread were put on the table along with a pâté of olive oil, which had a concentrated olive oil taste and avoided the usual drippiness that goes with olive oil for dipping.

Le Préambule

This was excellent, but I do not remember how it was composed. The predominant flavor was crab.
.

La Saint-Jacques,
marinée aux zestes de cédrat, rehaussée d’une vichyssoise,
poireau grillée et chips de vitelotte.

Fresh, flavorful raw scallop slices had been marinated in citron zest, creating sort of a mild, elegant ceviche. They were dressed with a green vichyssoise and topped with pieces of grilled leeks and crisp chips of blue potatoes. Imaginative and very good.
.

Le Foie Gras de Canard,
en raviole, crème foissonnée à la huile de truffe,
velouté de lentilles vertes du Puy.

Three ravioli filled with foie gras surrounded a mound of truffled whipped cream. Underneath was a cream of lentils. Lentils and diced carrot were sprinkled on top. It was good to have holiday ingredients. The combination was nice.

.
Le Chevreuil,

rôti à la poudre de genièvre torréfiée, sauce Grand Veneur,
palets de betterraves et pulpe au vinaigre Xérès.

A chunk of venison loin had been roasted with powdered juniper. It was nice and pink inside; crisp and flavored on the outside. The traditional rich, aromatic sauce was based on red wine and game stock. In back were rounds of beets topped with a vinegared beet purée; also a round of celery root, gooseberries and fried parsley. This was also traditional for the season and was to be eaten slowly as it was very rich and good.

.

Le Pré-dessert

Lemonade with a yuzu sorbet.

Le Citron de Menton,
à notre façon, mousse de lait glacée,
nashi givré d’un sorbet mentonnais.


A candied shell formed a faux lemon filled with a cold mousse and sorbet of Asian pear and lemon. The flavor was subtle and aromatic. Very nice. (Menton, on the Italian border east of Beaulieu, is noted for its lemons.)

The restaurant offered us a glass of champagne to go with the mignardises.

That is a candied chestnut on the left.

This was an excellent meal in the spirit of the holiday. The chef created dishes with top quality ingredients that showed imagination and a good feeling for flavor combinations. The ambiance, service, pace etc were all superb, as one would expect at La Réserve. It now merits the return of its second Michelin star.

http://www.reservebeaulieu.com/luxury-hotel/french-gastronomic-restaurant/the-restaurant-des-rois/

 

To see all of our meals at La Réserve de Beaulieu click here.

 

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