Gabriel Kreuther, NYC 5

March 5, 2019

Jim joined Linda and me for dinner at Gabriel Kreuther on January 25, 2019. We were seated toward the back with this view from my seat. The cranes represent the chef’s native Alsace. The opening to the kitchen is at the right.
 

We ordered a bottle of
Jean Velut “Lumière et Craie” Blanc de Blancs Brut Champagne.

It was good as apéritif and with the first course.  

A savory kugelhopf with chive fromage blanc was put on the table.

.

A four-course prix-fixe is offered with choices from the à la carte menu. There are also six and nine-course tasting menus and wine-pairings offered. 

Three little appetizers arrived.

We ordered a bottle of 
2014 Domaine Faiveley “Les Vaumuriens” Pommard.

Good Burgundy characteristics. 

We all started with
Hamachi, Black Truffle & Foie Gras Mille-Feuille
celery • grapes • truffle vinaigrette.

The flavors of the three main, luxury ingredients were both combined and distinct. The truffles added earthiness and the foie gras lusciousness. The sashimi of Hamachi amberjack was top quality. Excellent.

A whole grain ciabatta with soft butter was served.

Linda’s second course was
Four Cheese Ravioli
porcini preserve • bacon • sunchoke broth.

Two large ravioli filled with cheese were in the bottom of the small dish. They were covered with a good mix of crunchy bacon and porcini. Pea stems decorated the top.  This was an excellent flavor combination and dish. 

Jim and I had
Sturgeon & Sauerkraut Tart
caviar mousseline • applewood smoke


The dish was presented under a glass bell filled with applewood smoke. When it is lifted, we sense the aroma that has also permeated the sauce mousseline: hollandaise with whipped cream. The sturgeon is underneath; it benefits from the added fishiness of the caviar on top and from the acidity of the sauerkraut. 

The ciabatta was taken away and we were served rosemary rolls with pork lardo.

Linda’s main course was
Charcoal Grilled California Squab
fermented turnip • farce au paprika • natural jus.

The squab was succulent inside the grilled skin. Just enough meat. The squab stuffing with paprika was a good partner to the main squab. The green vegetable on the plate was described as uchoy (family of bok choi). 

Jim and I had
Heritage Pork Tenderloin
grilled fennel •
castle valley mill’s polenta • black truffle coulis

This was a good winter combination. 

There was a little fruity pre-dessert.

For dessert Jim had
Decadent • Chocolate • Caramel
mixed media crumble • chocolate mousse • caramel ice cream.

The photo does not show how beautiful this dessert was. A delicious, decadent chocolate tower indeed.

Linda and I had
Harvest • Pear • Caramel
pear tatin • cider sorbet • caramel crémeux.

The “tatin” was deconstructed, but good.  

The mignardises were three little mousse-filled domes and dark chocolates served in a cocoa shell.

We enjoyed a lovely evening. The cuisine was interesting, combining Alsatian and global ingredients with modern techniques. The service, pace, ambiance and noise level were always good.

https://www.gknyc.com

To see all our meals at Gabriel Kreuther click here.

 

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