L’Oustau de Baumanière 2,

December 8, 2020

Linda and I returned to L’Oustau de Baumanière on October 12, 2020. Although this was our sixth visit there together, we had not been for eleven years. In January 2020, under chef Glenn Viel, L’Oustau de Baumanière regained the third Michelin star which it had held for 35 years from 1954, but lost thirty years ago.

Five years ago, they created a campus including their other restaurant, La Cabro d’Or, several residential hotel buildings, a spa, a big kitchen garden and a new reception center for all of them. Our room was, fortunately, in the old building above the restaurant. Here is the view from our window up to the ruins of Les Baux above. Below is the boutique and, to the left, the outdoor swimming pool.

The restaurant has widely spaced tables.

We ordered glasses of the house Champagne.

Two appetizers were served with it.

We chose the Menu La Ballade des Baux. We ordered a bottle of 2018 “Les Chaillets” Yves Cuilleron Condrieu.

Excellent, enough for the first four courses.
We also ordered a half-bottle of
1999 Loius Jadot “Clos des Ursules” Beaune.

For the meat course and cheese; elegant. 

The first menu course was
Cuisses de grenouille,
riz de Camargue, échalote et ail noir.


Frogs legs were served on black garlic. They were topped with a shallot cream and firm rice from the nearby Camargue. A brioche bun was alongside.
.

Intense et corsé, rouget lissé,
crème fermière, écailles croustillantes, socca



A raw filet of red mullet was lightly spiced. Alongside was a purée of it which had the lovely  taste of a Mediterranean fish soup. There were also a disk of socca, a Nicois specialty made with chickpea flour, and another small, round bread.
.

Carabineros au grill,
Romaine, pulpe de citron confit

A large, grilled, red Mediterranean shrimp was dressed with lettuce and conserved lemon slices.
.

Croque Cabillaud, crémeux d’estragon,
jus d’arêtes typé sardine, oignon, cresson, lait d’arêtes


A rectangular slice of cod had been cooked between two thin slices of bread. It was dressed with a Béarnaise sauce and a thick reduction of fish bones. Alongside was a bowl of frothy milk flavored with a lighter reduction of fish bones and watercress.

Agneau de lait, le vrai ! un air de pré salé,
Tétragones et algues, jus d’agneau « marinière »



Two litte chops and a piece of filet of milk-fed lamb were served on a lamb glaze. They were topped with a mix of seaweed and “New Zealand spinach.” Alongside, on a faux grill, was an unctuous square of a grilled fatty part of the lamb. A slice of lemon bread accompanied.

.

Kyrielle de fromages,
assortiment de pains frais


The cheese trolley was ample and varied.
Here were Linda’s and my selections.

.

The pre-dessert was
Les Agrumes
granité menthe, émulsion pamplemousse

A mint sorbet was served on top of citrus.

Le dessert du boulanger,
levure givrée, émulsion pain grillé, chips de croissant


In this “baker’s dessert” a cold yeast custard was topped with a lacy wafer. A toast sauce was alongside as were small croissant-textured cakes. We inquired why the wait for this was so long when the pastry chef has the whole meal to get ready. The explation was that desserts with cold ingredients have to be assembled at the last minute.

The meal was superb: the creativity did not get in the way of well thought-out combinations and preparations. That seems to be the requirement for the third Michelin star nowadays. The evident precision may have explained the small portions.

In the morning we had a large breakfast in the dining room.

We certainly enjoyed our return to L’Oustau de Baumanière.

https://www.baumaniere.com/en/gastronomy

To see our adventure at Le Baumanière in 2009 click here.

One Response to “L’Oustau de Baumanière 2,”

  1. ted temple Says:

    optically sublime


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