L’Auberge du Père Bise, Talloires, 2

December 22, 2020

On our third evening at the Auberge du Père Bise, October15, 2020, Linda and I dined at its fine dining restaurant, whch has two Michelin stars. Its forty-year-old chef, Jean Sulpice, is a native of the Savoy region; he is dedicated to its products and culinary traditions.

We started with glasses of
Joseph Perrier “Cuvée Royale” Champagne.

The first hors d’œuvre was a braised chicken oyster, a small, round piece of dark meat from the back of the bird.

An unusually rich start.

Then, in contrast, a fluffy light bite.

The next two hors d’œuvres were foie gras en gelée and a vegetable tartelette.

We chose a bottle of
2013 Marquis s’Angerville “Clos des Ducs” 1er Cru Volnay.


Elegant.

The first course was
Œuf de cane

There were crayfish tails in the bottom of this duck egg refilled with a saffron sabayon.

A large, rustic loaf of bread, “Le Tranchoir,” was presented. In olden times slices of this were used as plates under meat.  Here it was served with caraway butter.


.

Cueillaison d’automne

This autumn harvest of greens and vegetable chunks with a mound in the center of beet purée, was served to us without its sauce. Chef Sulpice came to our table and we had a good chat. Then he poured the coffee and mushroom dressing around the vegetables.

Féra cuite dans son eau de cresson

Pieces of fera, a local fish from the deep, fresh waters of Lake Annecy, were on top of a watercress sauce. The talent of Jean Sulpice in bringing out natural flavors in his sauces was overdone here. The usually mild watercress flavor was too strong for the delicate fish.
.

Blette, camomille et polenta

Under the raw white mushroom slices were Swiss chard leaves, their ribs and a base of polenta. Around them was a lemon-camomile sauce.
.

Matelote du lac d’Annecy à la tanaisie


A matelote is a traditional preparation in which varied pieces of fish are marinated in wine which is then used to make a thickened sauce. Here different fish from Lake Annecy, including pike, smoked trout and fera were presented along with vegetables and herbs. The sauce was then poured around; it was flavored with tansy, an aromatic, rustic herb like the camomile in the previous dish. These give the impression of foraging in the hills.
.

Ris de veau, Antésite, bourrache et marjolaine

Three sautéed sweetbread lobes were dressed in a rich stock enhanced with a local licorice concentrate. Marjoram and borage, with its blue flowers, continued the rustic herb theme.
.

l’Esprit d’un alpage

A frothy mousse of beaufort cheese was sprinkled with herbs. Lovely. (An impressive cart of Savoy cheeses was also offered.)
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Crème caramel, maïs et pamplemousse/

A caramel disk with kernels of corn topped this crème caramel. Underneath was a grapefruit sauce.

Chocolat et safran


The chocolate disk on its white plate looked somewhat austere on presentation. But when you broke it open, a rich combination of a chocolate mousse and a saffron cream was revealed. The opposite of austere. 

The mignardises were iced pistachio balls, candied kumquats and dark chocolate disks.

A chocolate slab in a faux menu cover was to take home.

We enjoyed a lovely evening. The cuisine was inventive and very good while honoring its Savoyard heritage with local ingredients and traditions.. The service, pace and ambiance were just right.

This meal ended our three-night stay at the Auberge du Père Bise. It is a beautiful and relaxing place to stay. 

https://www.perebise.com/en/restaurant-jean-sulpice/

To see our meal at Père Bise three years before click here.

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