The Saturday market in Arles
October 2, 2007
Every Saturday morning there is an enormous market on both sides of the Boulevard des Lices, the broad tree-lined street which forms the south border of the old city of Arles. The street is closed to traffic except for busses and the vans of the market vendors. The market spills over into the Boulevard Clémenceau to the west and into some of the narrow streets of old Arles. The cafés which line the north side of the Boulevard des Lices are open and active. The market has a definite Provençale character with produce from the surrounding area and fish from the Mediterranean. Linda and I went on Saturday, September 22, 2007.
The Provençale nature of the produce is obvious: garlic, tomatoes, eggplants, olives, figs etc:
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The first signs of fall are there with squashes and cèpes, being cut here to show their good condition.
There are fresh local cheeses, of course:
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Many stands have prepared foods with recipes from Provence and around the world. There are quite a few from North Africa. There is an enormous paella and a big pot of shrimp provençale.
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Sausages are made from many meats including the famous black bulls of the nearby Camargue. The feistier bulls end up in a corrida in the Arles arena instead of at the sausage maker.
Spices and condiments are important:
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There is a big variety of breads, including local specialties such as fougasse:
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There are several stands grilling a wide variety of meats and vegetables on the rotisserie:
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There is, of course, a section of the market with a wide variety of fish, much of it fresh from the nearby Medierranean.
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The lotte, or anglerfish, known as Baudroie locally, is a handsome devil. All the fish needed for a bouillabaisse are assembled in one lot.
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Bouzigues oysters are raised in the Thau lagoon, southwest of Arles.
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And one can buy Château Cardboard in four flavors: red table wine, rosé, grey and merlot. Vin gris is made in sandy Listel, just west of the Camargue, from grey grenache grapes.
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There is also a section for flowers and plants:
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Soaps based on olive oil with provençale aromas, such as lavender or almond, are popular.
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October 2, 2007 at 4:32 pm
Once again your photos make me ooh and ahh over the glorious fruit, vegetables, fish, etc. Everything is so perfect! Hope to visit you one day and see this market in person!
Hugs,
Elaine
October 3, 2007 at 2:47 pm
I am glad that you got to the market. It really is amazing isn’t it. I was confounded by how much produce that they had on the 2nd of June, which I don’t generally think of as harvest season for tomatos,beans, stone fruit etc.
October 3, 2007 at 7:45 pm
That’s a market! I am hiding this link from Julie who is laboring under the impression that our Farmers Market is extensive and the goods on offer are of high quality. I don’t want to shatter the false impression.
October 3, 2007 at 9:07 pm
It just makes me want to jump on a plane! A great trip through the market and great photos. What I can show you here is so pale by comparison so we should concentrate on looking at the ocean instead.
October 5, 2007 at 4:33 pm
Superbe ce marché, les legumes, fleurs, poissons, la tête de la lotte, impressionnant! Felicitations.
Aucune comparaison avec le marché de Beaulieu. C’est dommage pour nous. J’apprecie les textes en anglais !! pour cela aussi merci.