Ankyu (安久), Kyoto
December 2, 2014
Ankyu (安久) is named after a restaurant that was run by the young owner-chef’s grandmother. Opened a few years ago, Ankyu received its second Michelin star in 2012. The inside is modern, bright and clean, with only 6 diners an evening, seated at chairs comfortably spaced at the counter. Hiroshi and Harumi joined us there for dinner on October 25, 2014.
The next course was anago eel, sesame sauce, little cucumber crescents (the green you can just see the in the back right,) topped with almonds.
Anago, sea eel, does not have as much flavor or firm texture as the more popular unagi, or fresh water eel. The mild sesame sauce was a perfect match for it.
Matsutake mushrooms in a tempura style.
Seasonal and lovely. Tempura is one way to capture the aromas of this special mushroom.
Underneath the crab was cooked mizuna. This was simple and excellent.
Turnip and nodoguro, black throated sea perch, in a viscous sauce topped with a lot of julienned yuzu peel.
Interesting textures and elegant mild flavors.
The excellent meal was interesting in its unusual ingredients and pairings. The chef is presenting his own style and dishes among the many kaiseki restaurants in Kyoto, whose offerings can seem to be repetitive. There are only three working at Ankyu. Harumi told me that when the sous-chef arrived two years ago, he could do little, but now he can do everything needed.
This was a very enjoyable evening.
3-283 Miyagawasuji, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto.